Mature Skin · Ingredients
Most skincare labels tell you what is inside, but not how much. After 50, when skin is drier and more reactive, that difference matters. Here is how to read an ingredient list in a minute, what the percentages really mean, and the claims that mean nothing at all.
The short answer
In the US, ingredients must be listed from most to least, but anything at 1% or less can appear in any order, and “fragrance” can hide a whole blend.13 So position tells you little about how much active ingredient you are getting. Look for brands that print the concentration, skip fragrance if your skin reacts, and ignore unregulated words like “hypoallergenic.”2
01How an ingredient list is ordered
US rules require ingredients to be listed in descending order of amount. But there are two big exceptions: ingredients at 1% or less may be listed in any order after the rest, and fragrance and flavor compounds can be declared simply as “fragrance” or “flavor.”1
In practice, the first five or so ingredients make up most of the formula. The actives you are paying for often sit below the invisible 1% line, where order no longer tells you anything about amount.
02The concentration problem
Two serums can both list “retinal” and contain wildly different amounts. Unless the brand prints the concentration, you cannot tell. That is why we put the numbers on our labels. Here is how to read them.
equals 10,000 ppm (parts per million). So 2,500 ppm is 0.25%, and 20 ppm is 0.002%. Very potent ingredients are often listed in ppm because the percentage would be a tiny decimal.
| Active (MISOORA) | Printed amount | As a percentage |
|---|---|---|
| Retinal (retinaldehyde) | 0.2% | 0.2% = 2,000 ppm |
| NAD+ | 2,500 ppm | 0.25% |
| PDRN | 2,000 ppm | 0.2% |
| Exosomes | 50 ppm | 0.005% |
| EGF | 20 ppm | 0.002% |
A higher number is not automatically better. Different ingredients work at very different levels, and stronger is not always better tolerated, especially for retinoids.5 What a printed number gives you is the ability to compare like with like, and to know what you are paying for.
03Claims that mean nothing
Some of the most reassuring words on a label have no legal definition.
“Hypoallergenic”
The FDA says there are no federal standards or definitions for this term; it means whatever a company wants it to mean.2
“Clinically proven,” “dermatologist tested,” “clean”
Look for specifics: how many people, how long, measured how, and by whom. A claim without numbers is marketing. “Dermatologist tested” tells you someone looked, not what they found.
“Unscented”
Not the same as fragrance-free. Products can contain masking scents. If your skin reacts to fragrance, check that the word “fragrance” (or “parfum”) is not in the ingredient list at all.3
04Red flags for mature, sensitive skin
When skin is drier and more reactive after menopause, a few ingredients cause most of the trouble. For easily irritated skin, the AAD advises avoiding:4
- Fragrance and essential oils, including “natural” scents
- Alcohol high on the list, and astringent toners
- Exfoliating acids such as glycolic and lactic acid, especially stacked with a retinoid
- Menthol and camphor, the “cooling” ingredients
- Sodium lauryl sulfate in foaming cleansers
Fragrance deserves special attention: under US rules it can be listed as one word, so you cannot see which compounds are inside, and some of them can cause allergic reactions or sensitivities.3
05A 60-second label check
- Find the active and its amount.If the brand does not print a concentration, assume it may be low.
- Check the first five ingredients.That is most of what you are putting on your face.
- Look for “fragrance” or “parfum.”If your skin is reactive, put the product back.34
- Scan for alcohol near the top and stacked acids.Both are hard on a menopausal barrier.4
- Ignore the front of the box.Words like “hypoallergenic” and “clean” are not standards.2
Disclosed on the label
NAD+ Firming Serum: 2,500 ppm NAD+
With NMN and ATP in a barrier complex of ceramide NP, cholesterol and linoleic acid. Fragrance-free and ethanol-free. For the look of firmer, smoother skin.
Shop NAD+ serum
Disclosed on the label
PDRN Exosome EGF Serum: 2,000 / 50 / 20 ppm
PDRN, exosomes and EGF printed separately, not hidden in a blend. A night renewal step for thin, tired-looking mature skin.
Shop the night serum
Disclosed on the label
Retinal 0.2% Barrier Serum
Retinaldehyde at a stated 0.2%, buffered with ceramide NP, centella, beta-glucan and bisabolol. Fragrance-free, in an airless pump.
Shop Retinal 0.2%Every step, every number, one box. The sets cost less than buying each product separately.
Key takeaways
- Ingredients are listed by amount, but anything at 1% or less can appear in any order.1
- Position on the list does not tell you how much active you are getting; a printed concentration does.
- 1% = 10,000 ppm. Compare like with like, and higher is not always better.
- “Fragrance” can hide a blend of compounds that may irritate reactive skin.3
- “Hypoallergenic” has no federal definition.2
06FAQ
Why don’t most brands print the concentration?
US rules do not require it.1 Some brands keep it confidential; others use very small amounts that would look unimpressive in print. Either way, without the number you cannot compare.
Is “parfum” the same as fragrance?
Yes, it is the international name for the same thing: a blend whose individual components usually are not listed.3
Should I avoid every ingredient I can’t pronounce?
No. Many long chemical names are gentle, well-studied ingredients, such as ceramide NP or sodium hyaluronate. Judge an ingredient by what it does, not how it sounds.
What does a higher retinoid percentage mean for mature skin?
Usually more irritation as well as more activity. For menopausal skin, a moderate, well-buffered retinoid used consistently often beats a strong one you abandon after two weeks.5
Keep reading: How to spot a NAD+ serum that works · 10 menopause skincare myths
References
- US Food and Drug Administration. Cosmetics labeling guide.
- US Food and Drug Administration. “Hypoallergenic” cosmetics.
- US Food and Drug Administration. Fragrances in cosmetics.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Rosacea skin care tips dermatologists give their patients.
- Fluhr JW, Vienne MP, Lauze C, et al. Tolerance profile of retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid under maximized and long-term clinical conditions. Dermatology. 1999;199(Suppl 1):57–60.
Written by MISOORA Editorial. This article is for general information and is not medical advice. Product results are cosmetic and vary from person to person.
